So less than a week into community entry and I'm back in Lusaka...More on that later though. After swear in, the 9 of us newbies being posted in Northern Province travelled up there with our PCVL (Peace Corps Volunteer Leader- this is a volunteer who has finished his two years of service and extended for a 3rd year. There is one in every province. He lives in the provincial house and acts as a resource for us volunteers in Northern Province). We got to stay at the provincial house in Kasama for a few nights which was a lot of fun. We got to meet some of the other volunteers from Northern province, made big meals, and watched movies. We also took a little field trip to Chisembe Falls. It was about an hour from the house and really beautiful. We went swimming, and of course I cut my foot while jumping off a platform (I swear I am more injury prone here than anywhere). While in the provincial capitol of Kasama we tried to set up our bank accounts and do some shopping. We had to buy all the stuff we would need for our site. Since there is a grocery store (Shoprite) in Kasama we did most of our grocery shopping there. Then the 6 of us who are posted in Mpika took the 2 hour drive to Mpika district to do other shopping. We stayed at a guest house one night because it took a little longer than we thought to buy all of our goods. Here are some of the thing I bought in the Mpika markets:
-a brazier
-3 big plastic tubs for washing (dishes, laundry, bucket baths, etc)
-bulk toilet paper & candles
-enamel cups
-forks, spoons
-a reed mat for the floor of house
-two pots for cooking
-huge plastic airtight container for food
-3 basket plastic shelf for clothes and such
Other things purchased in Lusaka or Kasama:
-knives
-lots of pasta and sauce mixes
-bulk rice
-cooking oil
-spices
-tupperwear containers
-lantern
Coming to Africa- I definitely did not think I would have so much stuff. It was almost embarrassing unloading all of that plus my two big bags and backpack out of the cruiser. My hut is so small that all of this barely fits with my bed, desk and chair. I'm still pretty much living out of my suitcase which sucks... but once I get the addition on the hut then I can have the carpenter make me a shelf of some sort.
So ever since we arrived in Zambia we were told that one of the most surreal moments would be when we were dropped at site with all of our stuff and watch the cruiser drive away. I'm happy to report it wasn't quite as bad as I thought! I got all settled into the village and the counterpart that the PC set me up with has been showing me around and such. I went to a PTA meeting for a local school and introduced myself which was nice. I was also taken a few villages over and had a meeting with the community there explaining my project and whatnot. I've met something like 8 different headmen so far. It's pretty overwhelming because each village/headmen has different needs and will be wanting me to help in different ways. It will be really difficult figuring out where I should start work once August rolls around. The LIFE project is both good and bad in the respect that I have a lot of freedom deciding what kind of work I want to do in the village. I got to speak to the District Forestry Officer of Mpika who told me that a main environmental problems in Luchemebe (my chiefdom)is deforestation. People are cutting down trees for charcoal and for harvesting caterpillars (which are a very popular relish here). Other people have told me they just want help in increasing the yields from their fields. Right now it's groundnut harvesting season so most of my neighbors are busy with that. Soon will come maize harvesting as well- a HUGE deal here in Zambia.
The family who has "adopted" me has been really great. Poulin is the 27 year old wife, and Phillip is the 37 year old husband. They have taken me to their groundnut fields to help them harvest, and then also showed me how to make peanut butter. They have me over for dinner every night but I'm still trying to figure out how this relationship is going to work. Poulin makes dinner, prepares a tray for me and then sets it inside for me to eat while the rest of the family eats outside. I think she considers me a guest and wants me to be seated at a "proper" table and whatnot. She and Phillip ask me questions about my family and America all the time. My favorites have been "is the moon in America?" and then at one point Poulin pulls out her breast to ask me if women breast feed in America. I told them that my parents would probably be coming to visit me eventually, and now they like to as me what my dad likes all the time. Does he like nshmia? chicken? watermelon? etc. I think they are preparing for his visit already! Poulin is also great in helping me get water. I have two large jerry cans for water. An aid agency DAPP is in the process of building a well near my site, but currently our water source is about a 8 minute walk away- a natural spring of sorts. I almost passed out the first time I tried to carry a jerry can filled from the spring to my house. Poulin can carry one on her head with ease.
My other neighbors have also been helpful in showing me around and helping me sweep my yard. There is a little compound of huts in front of and to the left of my house. While their huts do not face mine, the family has made a habit out of sitting on the back stoop and watching me. I will sit in my insaka and read for a few hours and they will continue to just sit and stare. I wave at them thinking they may pretend to look away- but they just wave back and keep on staring. Ahh life in a fish bowl.
So this past Thursday I was on my way to an HIV/AIDS support group meeting in the next village over. I was to meet the headman who would take me to the meeting. I was cruising down the road pretty fast on my bike and tried to avoid some rocks in the road. I hit a patch of sand and loose gravel and wiped out hard. While my leg was bleeding quite heavily, I didn't want the village to think I was ditching their meeting so I kept going. I arrived at the headman's house in tears from the pain. Him and his wife helped wash out the cuts and I decided to bike back to my house (about 15 minutes away). I didn't realize the severity of the wounds until I got off my bike. I quickly took some advil, told Poulin I was going to the clinic and biked the 4k to see the nurse. She was very comforting and gave me numerous hugs ( a rarity here for Zambians). I was told I would need stitches, so I called our PC medical officer. She told me I would need to get to a real hospital. Long story short, the nurse at the local clinic cleaned out the wound, wrapped it up and I went home. The next morning our Northern Province PPC (Provincial Programing Coordinator) picked me up in the cruiser and took me to Lusaka. If I would have arrived within 24 hours I would have needed stitches on a deep cut on my knee. However I missed that window of opportunity and just have to deal with bandages. It's pretty painful, and I'll have a pretty nasty scar, but I'll live. I'm currently staying at a guest house in Lusaka. It's nice because there is tv, hot showers, internet, and meals provided for me.
I'm a bit bummed because I had only been in my village for about a week. I missed another organization's meeting this weekend, along with going to church to meet other people, and having a Bemba lesson. I am working on finding a Bemba tutor, but it is proving to be pretty difficult. I have explained to my counterpart that I need someone who can speak fairly decent English and who has taught Bemba before. Right now they have suggested a man who keeps calling me Mr. Gordon. I think he's trying to say Courtney- but it doesn't come out quite right. In fact, I was given a Bemba name on my second site visit: Chileshe. So I tell people they can call me that if they can't pronounce Courtney (which most cannot).
So for now, I'm in Lusaka and trying to go see a movie later today. Not sure when I'll be back in the village. Looking forward to opening 2 packages that I've saved for my birthday next week- the big 2-3!!! Then at the beginning of June we have what are called 'Provincials'. It is when all the volunteers from Northern Province (about 20 or so) go to the house in Kasama and have meetings. It will be about 4 days away from the village and a chance to catch up my friends from my intake, and meet the rest of the crew up in No.Pro. Looking forward to that a lot!
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